How it works
The striker knob is pulled back, cocking the striker and opening the bolt. A paintball can now fall into the open chamber. When the trigger is pulled, the sear releases, and the striker/bolt assembly is pushed forward by the main striker spring. The striker hits the valve pin, briefly opening the cup seal, allowing CO₂ to travel into the valve body. Some of the released gas travels upward through a small hold into the bolt chamber, firing the paintball. The rest of the gas travels straight back to push the striker/bolt assembly to recock the marker. Releasing the trigger resets the sear.

2.2 Velocity

Current models of Spyders have a velocity adjustment system at the back of the striker plug. A small allen wrench (provided) can be used to turn the velocity adjusting screw (clockwise increases velocity). Rotating the screw manipulates the striker spring, increasing the force with which the striker hits the valve pin. Another method for adjusting velocity is to depressurize the marker and turn the reservoir plug at the front (under the barrel) of the 'gun. This eases pressure off the valve spring, allowing higher velocities. It is necessary to check the plug regularly as it has a tendency to loosen during the operation of the Spyder.

2.3 Basic breakdown

Needed: allen wrench, screwdriver
1. Empty CO₂ and paint (very important for safety)
2. Remove sight rail screw and striker knob.
3. Hold the bolt and striker plugs (they are under pressure) and remove the two allen screws from both sides. The striker spring will pop the plug and plastic spring guide out.
4. To remove the bolt/striker assembly, either use the allen wrench to push the assembly back by inserting it into the slot on the side, OR remove the barrel and press carefully against the bolt. This will push out the assembly along with a rubber buffer.

2.4 Reassembly

Basically, just reverse the above process (2.3). To reinsert the bolt/striker, it will be necessary to pull the trigger a few times to allow it to slide into place. DON'T FORGET THE RUBBER BUFFER! For some reason, this part seems easy for many people to forget to replace.

2.5 Cleaning

Disassemble the Spyder. Wipe off any paint or dirt from all parts (the plastic plug on the power feed comes off to clean this area). Lube the bolt/striker assembly with a lightweight paintgun oil just before reassembly. DO NOT lube the bottom line: it will just gunk it up.

2.6 Basic maintenance

After each day of use, the Spyder should be cared for. Disassemble and clean the Spyder. Check the o-rings for wear, and immediately replace any that look damaged. Check all screws and make sure they are tight enough. (Do not overtighten.)

2.7 More extensive tear-downs and maintenance

• Every so often, remove the bottom line with a pair of pliers or a wrench. Remove the brass filters and replace or clean them.
• The grip/trigger assembly can be removed by unscrewing the two grip screws, located under the main body of the marker.
• The anti-double-feeder can be removed by removing the two screws (on the left side).

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3.0 Troubleshooting

3.1 Basic Problems
Most problems with the Spyder can be fixed by checking three things (might as well check the easiest ones first).
1. Be sure the CO₂ source is working properly (i.e. see if the tank is full and is the valve is working)
2. Clean and lube the Spyder.
3. Change the o-rings (standard valve rings, #015 work well).
4. If these don't work, see More complex problems (3.2) for other possible sources of problems.

3.2 More complex problems

The following problems are addressed with the most likely possible solutions first.

3.2.1 Velocity won't go up

1. Bits of dirt or paint gunk up the bolt, striker, or one of their o-rings. A cleaning will fix this if it's the problem.
2. It's too cold for CO₂ to expand fully: manipulate the reservoir plug as in 2.2.
3. Liquid CO₂ may be getting into the marker and not be expanding properly: an expansion chamber or anti-siphon tank may help.
4. The spring may be too weak or short. Small washers inserted behind the plastic spring guide will help boost velocity.

3.2.2 Velocity suddenly drops

See 3.2.1: Usually fixed by the first solution

3.2.3 I can't cock my Spyder

Usually caused by bits of paint in the bolt/striker assembly. A quick fix is to pour water into the marker to soften and wash any obstructions. (Be sure to clean it completely soon afterward.) For a complete solution, simply clean the marker.

3.2.4 The Spyder sputters (say it 10 times fast)

1. See 3.2.1 first. Many sputtering problems have a similar basis.
2. Be sure to release the trigger all the way to allow the sear to reengage.
3. (Bottom-line Spyder) Air flow may be blocked in the filters. GENTLY remove the line near the grip with a wrench or pliers. Remove the brass filters and clean or replace them.

3.2.5 Velocity won't go down

This is a rare problem that was eventually traced to problems caused by the metal disk getting wedged behind the plastic spring guide. Simply remove the disk and flatten and replace it.

3.2.6 Gas is leaking from the bottom-line

This may be due to a crack, or just a loose fitting. If it's a loose fit, Teflon® tape should cut out the leak. If the fittings are cracked, the bottom-line may need replacement.

3.2.7 Gas is leaking down the barrel

1. Low level of CO₂. Refill the tank.
2. Replace the cup seal.

3.2.8 It keeps double-feeding/breaking balls

1. Check the anti-double feed nub on the left side of the chamber. Some Spyders are known to have shipped without them.
2. See 3.2.4. This problem can also chop balls.

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4.0 Other things about the Spyder...

4.1 Striker knob
The striker knob has a tendency to work itself out as the Spyder operates. Solutions include removing it and keeping it in a pocket and using Teflon® tape.

4.2 Aiming

The sight plane of the Spyder is blocked by the power feed. Many people simply sight along the barrel or watch where shots are hitting and 'walk' shots onto a target. Some sights are high enough to see over the powerfeed, and sight rail raisers are available.

4.3 Thin barrel brake

The stock barrel is aluminum and lined with brass...up to the muzzle brake where it becomes a thin piece of aluminum, prone to bending. If this piece causes a problem, it may be carefully removed with hand tools without significant effect on performance.

4.4 The Kingman manual

The manual is highly error prone with multiple misspellings. Remember, the Spyder isn't made in an English-speaking country...

4.5 Add-ons

Inevitably paintgun owners want to add onto their paintgun. Here are some of the top choices:
• A new barrel. Barrels are made by J&J, Smart Parts, and others. Barrels made for Kingman's Hammer pump 'guns also work on the Spyder.
• Motorized loader. The rate of fire of the Spyder and it's relatively smooth operation leads many to purchase a powered loader.
• Remote. Kingman makes a decent, inexpensive, basic remote with expansion chamber (PCRI four-star rating).
• Expansion chambers. Countless models are available to prevent liquid CO₂ from entering the 'gun.
• Replacement bolts. New bolts are beginning to hit the market, including a rumored Delrin model. More on these later.
• Field strip screws. Large-headed screws which replace the two side allen screws on the Spyder. Going price is about $15 a pair.
4.6 Venturi (?) bolt
Kingman includes a little plastic piece on the front of its bolts and calls it a Venturi, a valve style that evens out the flow of gas over a wider surface. However, there is some question regarding whether the little plastic cross in Kingman's 'guns does anything, especially considering people who have discovered them broken or removed them and noticed no change in performance.

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