The Spyder is an open-bolt, blow-back semi-automatic paintball marker produced
by Kingman International, initially released in early 1995. Since the original release,
Kingman came out with the Spyder Compact, a slightly smaller variation on the basic
Spyder. The paintgun, which received a 4-star rating from PCRI has been growing in
popularity ever since.
The striker knob is pulled back, cocking the striker and
opening the bolt. A paintball can now fall into the open
chamber. When the trigger is pulled, the sear releases,
and the striker/bolt assembly is pushed forward by the
main striker spring. The striker hits the valve pin,
briefly opening the cup seal, allowing CO2 to travel
into the valve body. Some of the released gas travels
upward through a small hold into the bolt chamber, firing
the paintball. The rest of the gas travels straight
back to push the striker/bolt assembly to recock the
marker. Releasing the trigger resets the sear.
Current models of Spyders have a velocity adjustment
system at the back of the striker plug. A small allen
wrench (provided) can be used to turn the velocity
adjusting screw (clockwise increases velocity). Rotating
the screw manipulates the striker spring, increasing the
force with which the striker hits the valve pin. Another
method for adjusting velocity is to depressurize the
marker and turn the reservoir plug at the front (under the
barrel) of the 'gun. This eases pressure off the valve
spring, allowing higher velocities. It is necessary to
check the plug regularly as it has a tendency to loosen
during the operation of the Spyder.
Needed: allen wrench,
- Empty CO2 and paint
(very important for safety)
- Remove sight rail screw and striker knob.
- Hold the bolt and striker plugs (they are under pressure) and remove
the two allen screws from both sides. The striker spring will pop the plug and plastic
spring guide out.
- To remove the bolt/striker assembly, either use the allen wrench to
push the assembly back by inserting it into the slot on the side, OR remove the barrel and
press carefully against the bolt. This will push out the assembly along with a rubber
Basically, just reverse the above process (2.3). To
reinsert the bolt/striker, it will be necessary to
pull the trigger a few times to allow it to slide
into place. DON'T FORGET THE RUBBER BUFFER! For some
reason, this part seems easy for many people to forget
Disassemble the Spyder. Wipe off any paint or dirt from
all parts (the plastic plug on the power feed comes
off to clean this area). Lube the bolt/striker assembly
with a lightweight paintgun oil just before reassembly.
DO NOT lube the bottom line: it will just gunk it up.
After each day of use, the Spyder should be cared
for. Disassemble and clean the Spyder. Check the
o-rings for wear, and immediately replace any that look
damaged. Check all screws and make sure they are tight
enough. (Do not overtighten.)
2.7 More extensive
tear-downs and maintenance
- Every so often, remove the bottom line with a pair of pliers or a
wrench. Remove the brass filters and replace or clean them.
- The grip/trigger assembly can be removed by unscrewing the two
grip screws, located under the main body of the marker.
- The anti-double-feeder can be removed by removing the two screws
(on the left side).
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Most problems with the Spyder can be fixed by
checking three things (might as well check the
easiest ones first).
- Be sure the CO2 source is working properly (i.e. see if the tank is full and
is the valve is working)
- Clean and lube the Spyder.
- Change the o-rings (standard valve rings, #015 work
- If these don't work, see More complex problems (3.2) for
other possible sources of problems.
3.2 More complex
- Bits of dirt or paint gunk up the bolt, striker, or one of
their o-rings. A cleaning will fix this if it's the problem.
- It's too cold for CO2 to expand fully: manipulate the reservoir plug as in
- Liquid CO2 may be getting into the marker and not be expanding
properly: an expansion chamber or anti-siphon tank may help.
- The spring may be too weak or short. Small washers
inserted behind the plastic spring guide will help boost velocity.
3.2.2 Velocity suddenly drops
See 3.2.1: Usually fixed by the first solution
3.2.3 I can't cock my Spyder
Usually caused by bits of paint in the
bolt/striker assembly. A quick fix is to
pour water into the marker to soften and
wash any obstructions. (Be sure to clean
it completely soon afterward.) For a
complete solution, simply clean the
3.2.4 The Spyder sputters (say it 10 times
- See 3.2.1 first. Many sputtering problems have a
- Be sure to release the trigger all the way to allow the
sear to reengage.
- (Bottom-line Spyder) Air flow may be blocked in the
filters. GENTLY remove the line near the grip with a wrench or pliers. Remove the brass
filters and clean or replace them.
3.2.5 Velocity won't go down
This is a rare problem that was eventually
traced to problems caused by the metal disk
getting wedged behind the plastic spring guide.
Simply remove the disk and flatten and replace it.
3.2.6 Gas is leaking from the
This may be due to a crack, or just a loose
fitting. If it's a loose fit, Teflon® tape
should cut out the leak. If the fittings are
cracked, the bottom-line may need replacement.
3.2.7 Gas is leaking down the
- Low level of CO2. Refill the tank.
- Replace the cup seal.
3.2.8 It keeps double-feeding/breaking
- Check the anti-double feed nub on the left side of the
chamber. Some Spyders are known to have shipped without them.
- See 3.2.4. This problem can also chop balls.
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4.0 Other things about the Spyder...
The striker knob has a tendency to work itself out as
the Spyder operates. Solutions include removing it and
keeping it in a pocket and using Teflon® tape.
The sight plane of the Spyder is blocked by the power
feed. Many people simply sight along the barrel or
watch where shots are hitting and 'walk' shots onto
a target. Some sights are high enough to see over the
powerfeed, and sight rail raisers are available.
4.3 Thin barrel
The stock barrel is aluminum and lined with brass...up
to the muzzle brake where it becomes a thin piece of
aluminum, prone to bending. If this piece causes a
problem, it may be carefully removed with hand tools
without significant effect on performance.
4.4 The Kingman
The manual is highly error prone with multiple
misspellings. Remember, the Spyder isn't made in an
Inevitably paintgun owners want to add onto their
paintgun. Here are some of the top choices:
4.6 Venturi (?)
- A new barrel. Barrels are made by J&J, Smart Parts, and
others. Barrels made for Kingman's Hammer pump 'guns also work on the Spyder.
- Motorized loader. The rate of fire of the Spyder and it's
relatively smooth operation leads many to purchase a powered loader.
- Remote. Kingman makes a decent, inexpensive, basic remote
with expansion chamber (PCRI four-star rating).
- Expansion chambers. Countless models are available to
prevent liquid CO2 from entering the
- Replacement bolts. New bolts are beginning to hit the market,
including a rumored Delrin model. More on these later.
- Field strip screws. Large-headed screws which replace the
two side allen screws on the Spyder. Going price is about $15 a pair.
Kingman includes a little plastic piece on the front of
its bolts and calls it a Venturi, a valve style that evens
out the flow of gas over a wider surface. However, there
is some question regarding whether the little plastic
cross in Kingman's 'guns does anything, especially
considering people who have discovered them broken or
removed them and noticed no change in performance.
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Teflon® is a registered trademark of DuPont
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Too see a complete diagram of a spyder click here King Man U.S.A